Re-wiring Part 3 – Indicators and test fitting loom

When I got round to my indicators I could see that they were in pretty poor shape. One of the indicators had a damaged globe holder and both of them had extremely perished rubber caps at the back, with wires that had been butchered over the years. I came to the conclusion that the best course of action would be to try and find some new globe holders. That set of a chain of hours of searching to find some new holders that could be adapted to fit the existing indicators. I finally settled on some Narva replacements that use the same globe as original. The indicators were stripped down, cleaned up, given a coat of new white paint and reassembled. I departed slightly from the original wiring by running an earth back to the central earth point for all lights. In hindsight I would have liked to have the indicators re-plated but it wasn’t worth getting just these two pieces done and at the time I had other items plated I wasn’t considering re-building the indicators. For the main wiring loom the new relays and fuses have been test fit to go under the battery tray. They should be out of sight but easily accessible if required. I finally finished most of the main loom. I took it off the board and test fit it into the car so that I could finish off the last couple of things. The fuse holders have been mounted high up under the passenger side of the dash. Again, accessible but out of sight. The 12 volt socket will be mounted on the under dash tray at the back and the electric washer pump has been fit off with connections soldered on. I still need to mount it up as I’m trying to find somewhere close to where the tubes come into the car without drilling holes into the firewall.

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Re-wiring Part 2 Headlight Pigtails

I made up new pigtails for the front headlights. The old ones were non original but in pretty good condition. I wanted to run heavier 30amp cable so I had a look and worked out that I could easily retain the three pronged plugs and build new pigtails from them. The original connectors were stripped and new cable wired in. I was able to pull the wires from the rubber grommets and drill out the hole to fit the heavier wire. I then test fit the headlight buckets, measured up the new pigtails, soldered new ends on and wrapped everything in original loom tape. They came out really good and should provide for nice bright headlights with the new relays and heavier cable.


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Re-wiring – Part 1

Haven’t updated in a while but have been putting a lot of time into re-wiring the car. Sometime in its life the rear wiring loom had been replaced with 5 core trailer wire. Did the job but I decided to build a new rear loom with the factory trace colours (unfortunately forgot to take photos). I also decided to wire in a fuse box and replace any crispy/damaged wires. The car will also be changed to negative earth to run the electronic ignition and install an alternator. Headlights to be run on relays. A 12v power socket will be installed under the dash and I need to wire in the electric washer pump that replace the original hand operated pump. Sitting against the backdrop of all of this is the desire to keep it looking pretty much original. Lots of work but very satisfying and hopefully will be finished soon so that I can move onto installing all of the suspension.

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Brake lines

It probably doesn’t look like much but this was the start of me putting the car back together and I absolutely loved it. After a couple of years of accumulating and reconditioning parts it was super exciting to finally see the pile start to go down. It’s also when the careful cataloguing should pay off. Unfortunately I now have so much stuff and so many photos I reckon I spent more time looking for photos than I actually spent working on the car. Job one was to get the brake lines under the car. I had new brake lines made up a couple of years ago. When I took the old brake lines off I took them to a pretty well know Sydney shop to get new lines made up, along with reconditioned calipers and new rear shoes. I was really careful with the lines so that they could make exact copies. Unfortunately they did an absolutely shithouse job and it looks like all they did was bend them by hand to approximately the shape of my old lines. Close enough is not good enough with brake lines that need to bend around corners and through panels so I spent a couple of hours straightening and re-bending the lines to make an exact fit. I fitted up the brake and clutch master cylinders as well. The clutch cylinder has a plastic cap which will need to be replaced with a new metal cap in time. While they are new, they’re not perfect and I’ve been debating whether or not to paint them. At this stage I’m leaning to not painting them as I want the car to look like a new Cortina and they wouldn’t have been painted from new. All in all pretty happy and nice to see some shiny bits making their way onto the car.IMG_5820

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Home again

The Cortina is now home and ready to go back together. The car has now been painted underneath in satin black and there is colour in the engine bay, interior and boot. The paint is amazing, Warwick is a perfectionist. Lots of masking and back masking ensures there’s not a speck of overspray. I chose to leave the engine bay, boot etc. as it would have come out of the factory so every hole, welding dag etc. is still there exactly as it rolled off the production line. As I mentioned on a previous post, because the car is being painted in Deltron paint, it was matched using a paint formula that was from the US in the 60’s. Same paint code ‘K’. It was a bit too silver in the spray out so blue was added to get it closer to the original 2K spray out. That turned out a bit too blue so the blue percentage was reduced and what we have now is pretty close to the original colour, albeit with a lot more depth from the Deltron. The colour actually looks blueish teal in the shade (and in photos) but goes silver in the sun. It looks really good and will be fairly unique as this colour with black interior is quite rare.

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Nearly ready for paint

This gallery contains 11 photos.

Warwick has been busy getting the car ready for paint. These photos were taken over a couple of visits. The car has been primed and block sanded. Underneath has been primed and painted in stone chip around the arches and … Continue reading

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Bodywork – Car Gapped

Lots of progress over the last couple of months now as Warwick finished up a long term project that was in front of mine. All the panels have now been gapped. Lining all the doors up was a bit of an ordeal as they don’t fit perfectly across the top and bottom. I suspect they never did. The compromise is getting all the vertical gaps perfect and making sure that the stainless trim will run perfectly down the horizontal. One of the back doors needed to be opened at the seam and re-welded to stretch it a few mm. Again, all the work has been finished in lead. The boot gaps are perfect but in the process a crack in the frame at the rear exhaust mount was discovered. In order to fix this the frame cut to be cut open, straightened, welded and a new captive nut welded in. The bonnet was a lot trickier as it was too tight across the front. To fix this Warwick split the front passenger guard so that he could widen the front end the few mm it needed. The final rust repair that the car is getting is the bonnet. They rust across the front as moisture runs down the curved bonnet and sits in the bracing at the front. A few minor spots turned into big holes when sandblasted, highlighting why blasting is such a good thing on these old cars. Warwick is concerned that the rust is under the bracing and will return so he is going to unpick the bonnet, repair any rust under the bracing, clean up inside the bracing and treat it so that rust never returns to this vulnerable panel. It’s amazing watching this craftsman work.

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